The Climb
by Anatoli Boukreev
Legendary climber Anatoli Boukreev's firsthand account of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, offering a different perspective on the tragedy that claimed eight lives and sparked intense debate about high-altitude mountaineering ethics and decision-making.
Spoiler Warning
This review may contain spoilers. Read at your own discretion if you haven't finished the book yet.
My Thoughts
The Climb is a riveting, essential account of the 1996 Everest disaster—one that offers crucial perspective often missing from other tellings of this tragedy. Written by Anatoli Boukreev with G. Weston DeWalt, this book is both a gripping survival story and a thoughtful defense of decisions that were heavily criticized in the aftermath of the disaster.
For those unfamiliar with the context: In May 1996, a commercial expedition led by Scott Fischer encountered a storm on Everest that resulted in eight deaths. Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air portrayed Boukreev, one of Fischer's guides, as having made questionable decisions. The Climb is Boukreev's response, and it's powerful.
What makes this book extraordinary is Boukreev's voice—humble, matter-of-fact, deeply knowledgeable about high-altitude mountaineering. He doesn't write like someone trying to excuse his actions or assign blame elsewhere. Instead, he methodically explains the context of decisions made in an extreme environment where every choice involves complex risk calculations and where conditions can change in moments.
The account of Boukreev's solo descents into the storm to rescue climbers is breathtaking. While others were incapacitated by exhaustion and altitude, Boukreev—who had climbed without supplemental oxygen—made multiple trips into brutal conditions to bring people down. His heroism is understated in his own telling, which makes it all the more powerful.
The technical aspects of high-altitude mountaineering are explained clearly enough for general readers while maintaining the respect for complexity that climbers require. Boukreev addresses the criticisms leveled at him—particularly about climbing without oxygen and descending ahead of clients—with rational explanations grounded in mountaineering experience and physiology.
What emerges is a nuanced picture of the disaster that differs significantly from Krakauer's version. Boukreev doesn't claim perfection, but he makes a compelling case that his choices were based on sound mountaineering judgment and ultimately saved lives. The book raises important questions about commercial Everest expeditions, guide responsibilities, and the media's rush to assign blame after tragedy.
Co-author DeWalt's contribution is significant—the writing is clear, compelling, and well-structured, allowing Boukreev's perspective to come through while providing necessary context and background. The result is both accessible to general readers and respectful of mountaineering's complexities.
Tragically, Boukreev died in an avalanche on Annapurna in 1997, shortly after this book was published. Knowing this adds poignancy to his words and makes this book an important testament to an extraordinary climber's character and capability.
Why You'll Love It
- Essential Perspective: Crucial counterpoint to other Everest disaster accounts
- Genuine Heroism: Boukreev's rescue efforts are extraordinary
- Humble Voice: No self-aggrandizement or blame-shifting
- Technical Insight: Deep understanding of high-altitude mountaineering
- Well-Written: Compelling narrative that balances detail with readability
- Important Questions: Raises serious issues about commercial expeditions
- Historical Significance: Documents a pivotal moment in Everest history
Perfect For
Anyone who's read Into Thin Air and wants the full story, mountaineering enthusiasts, readers interested in survival stories and extreme environments, and those who appreciate accounts of genuine heroism told without fanfare. Essential reading for understanding the 1996 Everest disaster and the controversies surrounding it.
Final Verdict
The Climb is a masterpiece of mountaineering literature—a gripping account of tragedy and survival, a thoughtful examination of decision-making under extreme conditions, and a testament to extraordinary courage and skill. Boukreev's perspective is essential for anyone seeking to understand what really happened on Everest in 1996. This is heroism without hyperbole, expertise without arrogance, and a story told with the clarity and directness of someone who lived it. A must-read that deserves to stand alongside the best mountaineering literature ever written.
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